Peddles, Seats,Tilt Hood, Trunk and Fenders

Making progress.  I had had to move the peddles forward about 6″. This meant eliminating the brake booster and getting a different peddle assembly. Peddles are very close as the foot well narrows the farther up you go but at least now I can straighten my legs.

After that, I worked on the seats. I had to make them slightly narrower and I shortened them by 8″. I also added a seat track to the drivers side and mounting brackets for passenger seat.

As any builder who is building a car you look for inspiration from other builders.  I saw a car that basically tilted the entire hood forward and then decided to join my front cowl and the hood I had fabricated from scratch as one piece and then hinge it so it would open as one piece.  This involved temporarily fastening them together and then joining them together using a cardboard beam that was then covered with fiberglass to make a structural component.  After assembling them, it was time to move on to the body work to cover up the raw fiberglass.

I also needed to make a grill for the front.  I fabricated one out of 1/4″ rod and 3/16″ rod for the horizontal bars.

Next I needed to build a frame for the trunk. Although it will be small, it will at least provide someplace to store my stuff.  It is always nerve racking welding over a gas tank.  I covered the gas tank with wet towel but that did not always work.  At one point I smelled something burning and it was a corner of the towel that had dried out.  Glad that part is over.

And I was able to finish welding the rear fenders (with some help from Brian). Still need to do some work but just getting them set was a challenge.

Still to do.  Fabricate the back half of the body work, top for dash, windshield, lights front fenders, upholstery, interior and a whole lot of other stuff.

Dash, exhaust, fenders and seats

Finished the sheet metal on the interior, got muffler and reworked exhaust. Started fender fabrication by figuring how much I had to widen them. Also the racing seats were just not going to work so managed to get two Diablo seat shells from a friend. A little fiberglass work and they fit.

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Exhaust

The S2000 exhaust would not work for this car. I cut everything off at the header and fabricated new headers into a 3.5″ collector. I simply routed it out the side. Will add a muffler in the future.  Was able to salvage the heat shield for the headers (not shown in the pictures)

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Engine In

Finally got the engine mounted, all brake lines, clutch lines, fuel lines, emergency brake are installed. Still need a couple radiator fittings before that can be checked off.  Did get body panels mounted as well. Still need to fabricate hood that will clear engine. Oh, yes, just a few wiring issues to resolve.

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Body Panels (made from fleece) and Floors

As mentioned in previous posts, I wanted to do a little something different from the pop riveted aluminum panels on the side. I heard that you could use fleece stretched over a frame and then covered with resin, you could make a shape. Then add layers of fiberglass cloth to build up the panel.

20150702_141625I started by building a frame with a body line that I could use.  I then covered the frame with regular fleece (you know like sweatshirt material). I used heavy duty cord to stretch it tight in all directions.

 

Next I soaked the fleece with fiberglass resin. and then applied two layers of fiberglass cloth.

 

 

 

20150711_14171520150711_14173820150712_113731 End result was a removable panel that will be finished with body filler for the final shape.

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Next It was time to paint the chassis.20150925_111718 20150925_123845 20150925_123807

 

After paint, time to make a template for the floors, Mark the aluminum, trial fit and then pop rivet in place. I know have floors.

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Radiator and Front Cowl

The front cowl that I use was meant for a model that had a smaller frame.  It was necessary to widen it over 4 inches.  This involved several steps. Having worked with fiberglass before, it was no big deal to use temporary bracing and screws to secure it in place, A little fiberglass matte, resin, time, some duraglass and  sandpaper got the rough cowl together.20150430_15455020150430_15450920150501_13270420150507_122610

Now it was time to find a radiator that would fit in the space.  Thanks to different forums, I selected a 1993 Volvo 240 radiator.

Next because there was no mounting points, it was necessary to design and fabricate the necessary fixtures and still leave room for a fan. (Yet to be purchased).

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Recap and progress

This is a typical Lotus Super 7.

Caterham Lotus Super 7 Roadsport I am going for something a little different.

ElfinMS8Streamliner

This is what I am basing my design on. Because it is a Right hand drive car and I flipped it in the picture, ignore the license plate reading backward.

 

Because this is not typical, there was no place to mount the taillights so I had to fabricate the entire back end of the car.  This turned out to be more complex than I had figured but think it will look good when done.

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You will notice that instead of the standard roll bar, I decided to go with two loops.

I welded tubes to the chassis and will later adjust the height to match the seats.

20150417_10335020150409_13332320150409_13331320150417_102656Next thing was the fenders. I found steel fenders at Tractor Supply but they were not quite the needed radius so I decided to notch them and make a smaller radius.  Made notches every 10 degrees, reshaped and welded.  Here are steps involved.

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I have totally removed everything from the car back to the bare chassis and will be looking to paint the chassis next.  Unless I change my mind.